Ffynnon Cynhafal, Llangynhafal

This forgotten wellhouse is off the main pilgrim trails, a holy source linked to St Cynhafal, whose Celtic churchyard lies in the valley below

Highlights

• Celtic holy well on hillside

Perched halfway up a hillside, with a holly tree over its roof and brambles guarding its entrance, this stone and brick well chamber is unexpectedly cavernous. It has been dug a couple of metres back into the hillside and holds a foot of water. You could, in theory, stand up in the chamber, but entry is impossible due to undergrowth, scattered debris, and of course, the water itself.

St Cynhafal was a missionary monk here in the 7th century. The water has been used for baptism in the past, although the well is some distance from the local church, half a mile away across the fields. It is also said to be effective in curing warts, which are pricked with a pin that is cast into the water, alongside a prayer to St Cynhafal.

The well is on private land next to Plas Dolben farm. The owners warmly welcomed my unannounced visit to their holy source, like all the landowners I met in Wales. Living beside a holy well must be good for the soul.

St Cynhafal is still remembered at the parish church he founded half a mile from his well, downhill on the edge of Llangynhafal village. The church celebrates his saint’s day on 5 October. As can be expected, there are no remains of his original wooden building in the current church fabric. However, part of the churchyard enclosure is circular, confirming it as an early Celtic site.

Directions‍

Next to: Plas Dolben Farm, Llangynhafal LL16 4LN (postcode for village)

W3W: parked.racked.peach

GPS: 53.1645N 3.2977W

The private drive to Plas Dolben starts 100 yards north of the middle of Llangynhafal village, along the main road. Alternatively, a footpath leads from the village church to the Plas Dolben farmhouse beside the well. To get to the church, head south from Llangynhafal to the first junction (which is almost a staggered crossroads), and turn left. The church is along here on the left. If you take the footpath from the church, consult a map first – and note that the OS map doesn’t currently show the well, just a stream of water emerging from the hillside near the farm.