Gloucester Cathedral Pilgrimage in a Day

Tewkesbury Abbey to Gloucester Cathedral – 14 miles, 1-2 days

‍Two epic medieval ecclesiastical buildings connected by stunning Severn Meadows along the river. Much local history in between and stunning medieval parish churches.

Tewkesbury Abbey

You begin this 14-mile pilgrimage early in the morning at Tewkesbury Abbey, one of the finest examples of Norman architecture in Britain. Standing as a centre for worship since the 7th century, and becoming a priory in the 10th, the present building is from the early 12th century. Set your intention - what do you want the journey to bring you?

Many important participants in the wars, feuds and politics of the Middle Ages are buried here, and it was unsuccessfully used as a sanctuary for Lancastrian nobles and knights in the Wars of Roses. This history lives on in the mesmerising Quire ceiling, heavily inspired by those same wars. Lying on the Abbey stone floor, gaze upwards in awe.

Severn Down and Severn Meadows to Odda's Chapel

Inspired by Tewkesbury, follow the Severn down, perhaps listening to local composer Ivor Gurney’s song ‘Severn Meadows’ to Odda’s Chapel at Deerhurst. This is a chantry founded in 1056 by Odda of Deerhurst (a relation of King Edward the Confessor,) for his brother Ælfric. It is one of the most complete surviving Saxon churches in England, and a good place for being silent. (explorechurches.org)

Chantries commemorated the dead through the practice of monks chanting for their souls, but they were abolished by Henry VIII in the English Reformation. The Act stated that all chantries and their properties would belong to the King himself for as long as he should live. However, few chantries were closed or given over to Henry, as Henry did not live far beyond the passing of the act; e.g. All Souls’ College in Oxford was built off the wealth of benefactors paying for their souls to be chanted for in perpetuity. Nevertheless, we need now to bring back the tradition of chanting for our ancestors! Another local composer, Ralph Vaughan Williams, composed a song to Shakespeare’s immortal words ‘Fear no more the heat o’ the sun’ which would be appropriate here.

St Mary's Church, Deerhurst

Staying a while in the parish of Deerhurst, you enter the extraordinary parish church of St Mary’s, built in the 8th, 9th and 10th centuries. The church boasts a wealth of treasures: the 8th-century relief of the Virgin and Child on the ground floor over the inner doorway, a byzantine influenced 10th-century relief of an angel on the ruined apse, and the recently discovered early painted figure found on a panel high up in the east wall of the nave. This may date from the 10th century – which would make it the oldest wall painting in any church in Britain. For the English art and folk song lovers among you, the embossed carving on the main door of church commemorates George Butterworth, who died tragically young in WWI. His song cycle of the poems of Housman’s A Shropshire Lad is a classic (listen to Proms performance). Making your way to the north aisle, you approach the star of the show: the baptismal 9th century font, again, one of the oldest in England, and has the only known example of a double spiral pattern. The font was rescued from use as a wash tub on a farm.
(source: Explore Churches)

St Mary’s Church, Hasfield

Ambling down the river, you come across 14th-century St Mary’s Church, Hasfield, a perfect place to listen to Ivor Gurney’s A Gloucestershire Rhapsody on your portable speaker echoing in its space before arriving at the huge medieval tithe barn at Ashleworth. Now cared for by the wonderful people at the National Trust, the barn was built in 1481 by Abbot Newland of Bristol Abbey, and consists of ten bays. During this time, farmers were required to five one-tenth (a tithe) of their produce to the Church. Maybe a good place for listening to Ivor Gurney’s song ‘I will go with my father a-ploughing’.

Boat Inn Pub

Time for a break and a tipple? There’s no better place for one than the Boat Inn. Run by the Jelf family for over 350 years, this is an establishment with history. Legend has it that when King Charles II was fleeing from his enemies after the battle of Worcester in 1651, a royal subject called Jelf ferried him to freedom across the River Severn at Ashleworth. In gratitude, the monarch granted Jelf and his descendants the right to the Ashleworth ferry crossing opposite their old farmhouse-turned-inn.

Others have it that these privileges may have been given to the Jelfs even earlier, by Prince Edward of March (later King Edward IV), when he was fleeing from his enemies of the House of Lancaster in about 1460. Listen to Finzi’s setting of Hardy’s poem ‘Overlooking the River’ here.

Maisemore Church

Feeling refreshed, amble through the Severn Meadows to Gloucester, stopping at Maisemore Church to listen to Gerald Finzi’s A Severn Rhapsody on your speaker, before one last stop at St Oswald’s Priory, founded in 900 by Lady Aethelflaed of Mercia (the daughter of Alfred the Great). The Priory Church was constructed from recycled Roman stones – which, at the time, was a bold and unusual move, considering the frequent Viking raids. Saint Oswald’s relics were buried here in 909 (a much-revered saint).

A few hundred more yards and congratulations! You have finally reached the magnificent Gloucester Cathedral, founded in 678 as an abbey dedicated to Saint Peter. Harry Potter’s Hogwarts School was filmed at Gloucester Cathedral – you may recognise the cloisters. The Cathedral is spellbinding, with its varied and intricate arches, huge tennis-court-like stained glass windows, exquisite Lady Chapel, and memorial windows (see below) by Tom Denny to walking-inspired musical composers Ivor Gurney and Gerald Finzi – who, alongside Butterworth, have accompanied us along our pilgrimage and are two of the best English art song composers inspired by the countryside, and who deepened my own love for the British countryside at university prior to discovering the practice of pilgrimage. Herbert Howells’ Gloucester Service has to be mentioned here too, a classic of the choral repertoire. Take to the floor (again) and lie down, looking up at the vaulted ceiling – perhaps lighting a candle to end your pilgrimage, and reflecting on the journey you have just completed, bringing to mind your starting intention and see how it has changed inside you. Onwards!

Directions

For a short circular route in the city of Gloucester itself, start at Llanthony Priory, Gloucester – there are many holy places to see in Gloucester. Follow the orange and turquoise lines on the Google Map below.

Please see Google Map waypoint descriptions for more info on each holy place, or the extended description below written by Guy Hayward, which first appeared in the May-Jun 2024 issue of the Idler Magazine.

The Gloucester Pilgrimage group

There is also the regular Gloucester Pilgrimage local group who meet to walk this route to arrive in time for Evensong. Contact Martin Henshaw and Guy Vowles for more details, if you want to join them.